Fix it Sunday... Master Mechanic, ask me anything!

hi-cycle in my blood from birth

even if i cut it off i would use wire to bring it all back together i already had to remove the exhaust manifold to get a stuck oil filter out and had to re-attach the heatshield using wire many many thousands of miles later its still holding up but thank you for the info no other older car ive had

Nope. I just replaced the Johnson Rod with a brand new one. It's polished and has amazingly smooth recipricating action.
Any other ideas?

I need a professional opinion on catch cans for Direct Injection engines. Have a Ford 4cylinder turbo, running fine currently.

Any particular oil that reduces build up on valves?

2008 F 350 Triton 5.4 Auto
barely stock options (even has roll up windows, non-electric door locks lol)
We had cam sensors done then it started coding timing errors. Local mechanic says it needs a new motor, because if we do timing it would cost the same as R&R. This is after I drove it to the shop. It was rough, but ok. They had it a week, went through 3/4 tank of fuel, and we had to tow it home from the shop.
Any thoughts?

I'm looking for a schematic on a 1984 F250 so I can wire a pushbutton starter into it. Not sure where to wire what...

Is this a dirty conversation?

drive shaft joint/deformation or torque converter

Rotors

timing chain stretch/skip

time to find good engine at breakers and swap

OP is like every mechanic I have ever seen. Says he will do some work, then doesn't

2001 Ford focus ze3 new throttle body and all throttle and idle related sensors have been replaced. Fuel pump replaced, plugs replaced all troubleshooting this issue Idles and runs fine until warmed up. Then spudders and idles irregularly dying at the light. No error codes. Checked pcv and vacuum hoses too. Replacing the egr pressure sensor today but so frustrating.

Been working on a 1985 Dodge W150, with a 318 engine. I drove it down to the barn, and backed it in, last August. The pickup doesn't have a computer, instead it has the electronic control module option.

It was leaving a trail of oil, dripping out about 5 quarts of oil in the 15 mile hill climb back to the farm. Figured it was blowing oil through a stiff front crankshaft seal, so I thought I should replace it. While the timing cover was off, I found about an inch of deflection on the timing chain. Replaced the timing chain and gears, and used new gaskets to re-assemble everything. While apart cleaned off whatever came off the engine and painted them with tractor paint, except the electrical parts.

I was certain that after such an easy repair, that it would fire right up.
Nope, it won't start.

Took off the distributor cap and noted that the rotor was 180 degrees off from where it's supposed to be. I found this surprising, since it was starting up easily and getting about 10 mpg, before the replacement of the timing gear assembly.

Used the dealership's manual to completely check out the ignition system, finding that the engine gets hot spark, at the time each cylinder needs it.

It still won't start.

Tried lifting up the distributor and setting it back down, so the number one tower is over the rotor, ready to deliver a spark to it.

It still won't start.

Lifted up and put the distributor back where it was.
Checked for spark at the plugs, and it is.

But, it still won't start.

Bought new plug wires and coil, replaced all the spark plugs, found the old plugs were somewhat oil fouled and gapped in the range of 0.053

No start yet.

Figured somehow I had wrongly reassembled the timing chain assembly, so I tore it all down to where I started, and put it all back together again, to prove that I did it right the first time.

Replaced the starter with a new one, figuring the old one wasn't spinning fast enough, even though the old starter was spinning the engine fast enough to start it before.
It sounds different now, because the parts store upgraded the design of the starter.

Nope, not starting, yet.

Somehow since last August, the battery fails to hold a charge, and exchanged it for a new one day before yesterday.

It's almost August again, and I would like to haul some hay with the truck.

Edit:
Replaced the fuel filter, and took the top off the carburetor to see if it had the proper level of fuel and if there was water in there. Sent away for a cqrb kit, and they sent the wrong one despite it having the same numbers. Right box, but wrong kit inside.

It's getting a bit frustrating that I have yet to get it running.

Thank you. I have a 2012 rav4 base model 4cyl. I mainly city drive, but anytime I hit the large bridges in my city the engine light blinks as I accelerate up to about 45mph on the incline. It blinks a minute (with a couple other dash lights turning on), then turns off. After a few trips over these bridges the lights stay on, but the engine light will blink every time I go up the slight incline when I reach about 45mph. And the car loses a little power when it blinks. A code says it was a cylinder 2 misfire. I changed that coil and spark plug, but it continues to happen. The car also has an engine leak at the intake where I need to add about a half a quart a week or quart every couple hundred miles. There's never any oil under the engine so it's burning off somehow, or dripping while driving only. I've read that this car had an engine issue with piston seals. Any thoughts? Thanks.

I don't have anything to fix right now, but I hope blessings flood your way for this. People are already getting raped at the pump.

Forester 2014 XT turbo - P0300 engine code.

Several times got check engine code P0300 "Random, Multiple Misfire Detected". No other codes, clear it, several weeks later it comes back. Mechanics says to wait for more codes.
It goes on now for several month.

Can anything be checked by myself to narrow down the problem ?

Does having an old nearly worn out battery effect MPG on a newer model car?? I’ve read some people say it does because of the alternator etc but I’ve also read it makes no difference???

Cranks over or no crank. I remember a friend had one of those cars, the red wire going to the fuse box for the power steering would cause issues. Also check the 40a fuse off the battery. Cam or crank sensor, transmission neutral switch

Most common cause of outer tire wear?

It shouldn't, but a new starter is more expensive than a battery

wow lotta work for a tacoma gotta 2002 other than adding fuel injector cleaner nevertouch it

i think the master mechanic took rest of day off

Are you lost, or just a malfunctioning bot?

You answered your own question. Oil leak into cylinder 2

why did you have cam sensors done ?

could the problem have been caused during that repair ?

Rebuilt 389 in a 64 Grand Prix
Runs hot when idle and on city streets gets to temp 200-210
On open road cools and runs about 180. Brakes tend to tweak left as well..
Has Original radiator thinking to reflush, all ready did once.
Best Options?
New water pump?
Quoting: Rex84 74942119


Fan clutch
Quoting: Anonymous Coward 84014134


When I was 20 years old I worked in a factory that assembled fan clutches. I was the fastest assembler with the most accurate quality.

Side note, check the thermostat, if that's good then it's probably the fan clutch.
Quoting: Professional Amateur


It's not the thermostat if it runs cool when it is being driven fastest/ hardest




Thanks. Will look into fan clutch as well.
Forgot to mention have bypassed the heater core since it is old and needs replacement, ran fine doing so prior to rebuild.

Wondering if it is water pump or issue with impeller/ vanes.

Thanks for input!!!

Hang tight, guys. Doin' my chores. Be back in a bit.