Underground bunker ventilation question

You need multiple fans per intake. One on the outer inlet to pull air and help force it through filtration and one just on the other side of the filter to pull it through filtration and force it out into the bunker. I highly suggest 2-3 intake points. Faster fans on the outer intake area and slower larger fan on the post filtration side. 4 stage hepa filtration with the final stage an activated charcoal filter. It will reduce any contamination down to safe levels. I'm not just talking biological or radiological contamination but the more realistic threats of burning plastics, rubbers and chemicals that occur when bad times abound. You can build a top tier system for under a grand however powering it is another story.

We don´t know each other, however I´ll try to give you my best advise in the matter.
For the purpose of best understanding I´ll start from the end, if any smell at all comes out of the shelter, it will be detected (specially if it is the smell of food). If it is detected and traced to the outlet, then sooner than later the intakes will be found. Covering the intakes is the weak part of those shelters. As covering the intakes will cut the air supply forcing occupants to come out. Not good.
No matter what you decide a fan at the very entrance or at the very exit will make enough noise. Not good.

Just build your underground shelter near Denver International Airport and 'tap in'.

Run a pipe up a dead tree trunk -- maybe rig a small windmill geared to a horizontal fan to force air down

Building a bunker OP? I thought you said nothing was going to happen?

He is probably asking for a friend.

I wonder how he's going to protect it or hunt for food considering he says we don't have any rights to own guns, and don't need them anyway.

If the ventilated space is a closed system without leaks where the air pump, so to speak is doesnt matter in terms of ventilation of airflow. It's better to be able to more air more or less to deal with smoke or vapors than may be generated in the space.
other issues of access to repairs or replacement and noise are more of an issue.
Most places will have real problems with buildup of humidity so more air flow to move the air out will be necessary.
The smaller the pipe the more resistance and the lower volume so it will take more energy to move air per cubic volume.
You should not allow uncontrolled ventilation leaks because bad stuff can leak in and spoil the enclosed environment.

Yes, a "friend"

Use a wood-burning stove.

The air going up the chimney (exiting) will cause new air to be drawn in thru the filters/intakes.

Ummm, no.

It's not worth going into but systems generally are designed to be as simple and effective as possible

Is your underground sanctuary able to hold all of the Abnormals of the world?

How much inside space should be reserved for your firewood?
Might the sight and smell of wood smoke kinda give your site away to the passerby or at least precipitate curiousity by passersby?
Who will clean out the chimney creosote and get rid of the ashes?

I have a 150' 10" pvc pipe barried at 5 feet below the surface. Filter cage on further end. Hepa dust you pick filter. That's good for most "stuff". I have pressurized suits in case maintenance is needed. Charcoal scrubber in case of chemical or gas. Scrubber is sealed and inside for deployment if needed. Vent stack with damper and seal if needed. Have fan but doesn't need it. Natural draft moves air. Temperature controlled by long intake. 90 degree day air coming inside is 65 to 70. 20 below zero outside air coming in 50 to 60. Teady stream of water on 5 hose hot humid days. Have a plan to catch it. In case you need to stay capped off easy to set up co2 scrubber. Need o2 system. O2 monitor is cheap.

These types of discussion is the old GLP i know nice keep it up it is riveting!

Yea, that’s my main concern - the humidity. I will have passive ways of letting air in and out, but my main reason for the fans is to move humid air out and non humid air in.

To be clear, there is no filtration system, I’m only interested in cutting out humidity for the most part and quickly moving fresh air in, bad out quickly if needed.

Last Edited by Cunt Smegma on 03/07/2018 10:52 PM

How many of your America-hating, Marxist Libtard friends will be joining you in your bunker to hide from all the Conservatives in the upcoming civil war?

150 ft of 5 ft trench is interesting. if your down that far what do you do about groundwater and bumidity buildup?
50 degree air and subsurface floor and wal temps tend to be below dew point most of the time.

I heard that the Fema camps have nice sealed underground shower facilities.
Try and see if you can get in, OP.

Yea, I’ve decided not to have a fireplace. I would be too paranoid that there was a raging fire starting above me and I didn’t know it

My plan is to build bunker the side of a non aggressive slope that terminates in a secure way, build the structure, then build a slanting fake ground wooden structure all around it that blends in with the natural slope, poly/tarp it, put dry soil on it maybe 8 inches, then poly/tarp it again, then more dirt until it all looks natural

Hopefully double tarping it will always keep dry earth next to the structure.

Last Edited by Cunt Smegma on 03/07/2018 11:04 PM

u

The idea of the long tube was originally just to have a hidden intake out in the woods. I couldn't believe how much it dehumidified the air. Moisture condenses and runs out pipe inside. The filtered cool dry air pours in at a surprising speed. You don't need fans most of the time. This intake is on one end about 18 inches high. Outlet vent stack should be located just beyond halfway across shelter. A secondary could be at far end. The warm humid air from breath is expelled naturally. The 2 to 10 gallons a day of water can be used. Just keep in mind what's outside for proper water prep or disposal. I don't see myself ever needing this but it was a fun project. Underground buildings or projects aren't taxable. I should've built an underground metropolis with a shed for an entrance

Yes, build one. All one need is to put fire on some tires close to your intakes/outakes. You'll suffocate quick and no resistence to loot your stuff. And since dead men can't shoot, the more guns and ammo you have the better. Looters say thanks.

Moving air itself will not dehumidify an unheated contained humid space that at or below the dew point which generally is between 50 and 60 degrees.
The only way to deal with that is either to heat the space above the dew point and/or to accumulate it on a freezing surface to preferentially collect atmospheric moisture on a freezing in solid and incidentally reusable and collectable form.

Its a really problematic situation and not one that is easily or cheaply remedied.
The problem is that a bunker environment is generally unhealthy and that is not easily fixed and is not intended for a permanent living situation.

I would like to sink a 40' conex box in a 20 ft deep hole stack another on top then earth and concrete on top. Use lower container for indoor growing area. Mine I have now is Styrofoam blocks filled with concrete. It is extremely dry year round. I have pergola wood flooring in part of it. Cedar lined storage areas. I have no groundwater issues. I'm at about 800' my drilled well is at 300ft. I have a backup dug well with hand pumps inside that is 24ft deep with about 10 ft of water in 4ft tiles. My next underground project will be conex boxes.

Nice info mining post your stupid shill.

I hope there arent any preppers stupid enough to give up their method.

But assume that all air from the outside during apocalypse will be super heated, without oxygen, and potentially radioactive.

Your surface vent hole will also most likely be damaged/ clogged, buried, flooded, or somehow covered and blocked.


I would start stocking up on T tank oxygen cylinders and find a way to make your own oxygen/compress it in tanks when you'll need it. Practice slow breathing/energy saving techniques and calculate how long you can make your tanks last.

You certainly aint gonna save your family like this - the amount of tanks required would be ridiculous.

Ill add to that if your going in your bunker to cower while others fight the war to defend this country KYS please.

You can disregard my first post as this is for the worst case scenario if nibiru comes and scalds the surface of the planet eliminating all life on its surface.

I also had a great idea to encase some kind of highly radioactive material in a thick glass ball and let it slowly fissure so it doesnt overheat but just glows. You could use it as a light source, for growing plants, heat etc.

And because its encased in glass no dangerous radiation can escape.

So you want to live if all life has been scalded on the surface.

Have you heard about textile systems? I really like those from [link to texair.eu (secure)] a lot, I have to say. I think you will find it interesting and helpful to you too, have a look there. It is pretty easy to install such a system I guess, and it works great too. I would like to try it in my growing room