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Sanding the old paint away and applying new layers of paint on your car

 
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 60017333
United States
06/05/2017 05:59 AM
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Sanding the old paint away and applying new layers of paint on your car
Can it be done by an amateur?

I've got spots the size of my palm where the paint is "bubbling" or there's obvious rust.

I've got anti-corrosion primer and paint coded for the old paint. Is it safe to sand the old paint and primer away, apply the new primer and spray new layers of paint on top of it. I'll finish it off with clear coat.

I am going to mask the rest of the car. I am just worried that the old paint is of a different color than the faded old paint. The last thing I want is ending up with obvious edges between old and new paint. Can I fade the away somehow?
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 74542944
Australia
06/05/2017 06:04 AM
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Re: Sanding the old paint away and applying new layers of paint on your car
Hit it with 400 grit paper and rub the shit out it.

Bog it up flush.

Hit it with 600, 800, then 1200

Hit it with a filler and sand to flat.

Clean, primer, paint.
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 75013761
United States
06/05/2017 06:07 AM
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Re: Sanding the old paint away and applying new layers of paint on your car
Can it be done by an amateur?

I've got spots the size of my palm where the paint is "bubbling" or there's obvious rust.

I've got anti-corrosion primer and paint coded for the old paint. Is it safe to sand the old paint and primer away, apply the new primer and spray new layers of paint on top of it. I'll finish it off with clear coat.

I am going to mask the rest of the car. I am just worried that the old paint is of a different color than the faded old paint. The last thing I want is ending up with obvious edges between old and new paint. Can I fade the away somehow?
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 60017333


Is Earl Scheib still painting cars for $149 ?

.
Anonymous Coward (OP)
User ID: 60017333
United States
06/05/2017 06:09 AM
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Re: Sanding the old paint away and applying new layers of paint on your car
Can it be done by an amateur?

I've got spots the size of my palm where the paint is "bubbling" or there's obvious rust.

I've got anti-corrosion primer and paint coded for the old paint. Is it safe to sand the old paint and primer away, apply the new primer and spray new layers of paint on top of it. I'll finish it off with clear coat.

I am going to mask the rest of the car. I am just worried that the old paint is of a different color than the faded old paint. The last thing I want is ending up with obvious edges between old and new paint. Can I fade the away somehow?
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 60017333


Is Earl Scheib still painting cars for $149 ?

.
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 75013761

Some of us like DIY and learning stuff.
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 40172990
Canada
06/05/2017 08:34 AM
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Re: Sanding the old paint away and applying new layers of paint on your car
Yes it is possible, but it is a lot of work (to do it properly) and some expense is required along with tools. If you are so inclined, here goes.

Remove all the trim, like weather stripping, headlights, emblems and the bumper covers.

Wash the car thoroughly, the aim to remove any grease, oil or contaminants.

Sand the entire car with an orbital sander, with 320 (for speed) or 400 ( if it is a nicer car)

hit the rust spots with a metal grinder and keep going until it is all gone. It may be necessary tp patch up any holes with some bondo, but in any case you will have to bondo the entire area that contained the rust. hand block any spots you use bondo until it is nice and smooth and the edges are feathered out to the existing paint with absolutely no ridges.After this, prime the entire area of rust repair with your zinc primer or corrosion primer

Now you can go over the whole car and look for any problem areas like dents, whoops, depressions, etc and repeat the process, except with putty, not heavy duty bondo. Let it dry well enough and sand until it is nice a nd flat, again the block is the preferred method for an amateur, but you can use the orbital if you feel comfortable with it. Apply primer on these areas, or if so inclined, the whole car( which is preferable with a colour change). A little trick to get it really nice and smooth is after priming, spray a very fine coat of black paint( so it appears to come out in fine droplets). What this will do is it will highlight problem areas such as small dents or depressions that need mre attention.

Now you have sanded the whole car, fixed the rust, primed and are ready for finishing prep.
Wash the car again, sand the whole car with 400, then 600 and you can take it higher up to 800 if you want, but 600 is fine.repair any areas that expose metal during this time and repeat the steps over again.

Now it is finish sanded and ready for paint.

Wash the car again and let it dry. take a blower and blow the whole car off to dislodge any dust that may be trapped.( you should do this throughout the process actually).

mask the car up in its entirety.You can buy flex tape that is a quarter inch thick for detail masking. After masked, treat the whole car with some sort of pre cleaner, even thinner works but pre cleanear specifically made for this purpose is desirable. Use clean rags or very stiff papaer towel that does not leave lint. It is preferable to acually use a blower this time too , to blow any surface dust into the rag.

Lastly, use a blower and a tack rag and go over the whole car. you may have to use more than one. the idea is to remove any dirt.

prepping is the key to a good paint job. once you start spraying, it is too late. If you want a quick and dirty job, scotchbrite the whole car with water instead of the long winded process i told you.

Now to the painting. Contrary to popular belief, less paint is better than "25 coats of clear" . i used to paint only high end vehicles, restorations, race cars and high end supercars that had to be perfect so i know what i speak of.

If it is your first time, keep an ample supply of thinner and rags around, in case you have to remove all the apint of a panel you start on. that way, the job can be salvaged if need be.

Start at the roof of the car and work down to the hood, trunk, then sides.Better way is do roof first, hood, trunk, one whole side, etc as flow is important. WATCH YOUR HOSES!!! It is common for new painters to drag hoses , especially against the hood, ruining the whole job. Wear a high end respirator.

I will assume you are going base clear. If you are doing this, dont try to paint the whole car on the first pass, you will ruin it. Give the vehicle an even :drop coat: on the first past to get something for the paint to stick to. You should be able to see about 50 to 75% of the prepped surface, still, after the first coat. I used to do it in three coats, but do more if you require. Careful of not putting it on too dry, or too wet, then you get runs, but runs are more on the clear..

Let it sit in between coats, if you are baking it, if not baking it wait at least 20 mins between coats.

Now you move onto the clear coating, this is the bread and butter. You are going to have to burn and learn on this one. I would suggest a test shot on some old piece of metal you have to see how it behaves, You also have to remember you can lay it on thick on the hood, for example, but not as think on the sides as it will run. What you are looking for is to get it to "flow". i cant explain that but google some vids on it. You will have to apply it more liberally than the base coat. Keep ypour gun perpindicular to the panel and makes sure you start the trigger before the edge and after the edge in even movements.

Googlew painting techniques for more info.

Now it is all painted, it is very important to remove the tape from the edges before it is dry but not when it is wet. google for more info on when to do that.

If it looks like crap, all is not lost, a lot can be repaired by wetsadning and polishing although an expert job reuires zero polishing and actually ruins the finish imho.

Ask more questins when doing it if you need more info and I will help you out.

good luck
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 72884162
United States
06/05/2017 08:55 AM
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Re: Sanding the old paint away and applying new layers of paint on your car
Use a sanding block OP, otherwise you'll get uneven spots and it will look amateurish.

Also use spot n glaze after removing sanding because your sanded spot will be lower than the surrounding surfaces.
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 75028731
Australia
06/05/2017 08:58 AM
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Re: Sanding the old paint away and applying new layers of paint on your car
"sanding the old paint away and applying new layers of paint on your car " .
first time saving tip ; just say - repainting a car .
so much quicker .
you are welcome .
Anonymous Coward (OP)
User ID: 60017333
United States
06/05/2017 09:06 AM
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Re: Sanding the old paint away and applying new layers of paint on your car
Yes it is possible, but it is a lot of work (to do it properly) and some expense is required along with tools. If you are so inclined, here goes.

Remove all the trim, like weather stripping, headlights, emblems and the bumper covers.

Wash the car thoroughly, the aim to remove any grease, oil or contaminants.

Sand the entire car with an orbital sander, with 320 (for speed) or 400 ( if it is a nicer car)

hit the rust spots with a metal grinder and keep going until it is all gone. It may be necessary tp patch up any holes with some bondo, but in any case you will have to bondo the entire area that contained the rust. hand block any spots you use bondo until it is nice and smooth and the edges are feathered out to the existing paint with absolutely no ridges.After this, prime the entire area of rust repair with your zinc primer or corrosion primer

Now you can go over the whole car and look for any problem areas like dents, whoops, depressions, etc and repeat the process, except with putty, not heavy duty bondo. Let it dry well enough and sand until it is nice a nd flat, again the block is the preferred method for an amateur, but you can use the orbital if you feel comfortable with it. Apply primer on these areas, or if so inclined, the whole car( which is preferable with a colour change). A little trick to get it really nice and smooth is after priming, spray a very fine coat of black paint( so it appears to come out in fine droplets). What this will do is it will highlight problem areas such as small dents or depressions that need mre attention.

Now you have sanded the whole car, fixed the rust, primed and are ready for finishing prep.
Wash the car again, sand the whole car with 400, then 600 and you can take it higher up to 800 if you want, but 600 is fine.repair any areas that expose metal during this time and repeat the steps over again.

Now it is finish sanded and ready for paint.

Wash the car again and let it dry. take a blower and blow the whole car off to dislodge any dust that may be trapped.( you should do this throughout the process actually).

mask the car up in its entirety.You can buy flex tape that is a quarter inch thick for detail masking. After masked, treat the whole car with some sort of pre cleaner, even thinner works but pre cleanear specifically made for this purpose is desirable. Use clean rags or very stiff papaer towel that does not leave lint. It is preferable to acually use a blower this time too , to blow any surface dust into the rag.

Lastly, use a blower and a tack rag and go over the whole car. you may have to use more than one. the idea is to remove any dirt.

prepping is the key to a good paint job. once you start spraying, it is too late. If you want a quick and dirty job, scotchbrite the whole car with water instead of the long winded process i told you.

Now to the painting. Contrary to popular belief, less paint is better than "25 coats of clear" . i used to paint only high end vehicles, restorations, race cars and high end supercars that had to be perfect so i know what i speak of.

If it is your first time, keep an ample supply of thinner and rags around, in case you have to remove all the apint of a panel you start on. that way, the job can be salvaged if need be.

Start at the roof of the car and work down to the hood, trunk, then sides.Better way is do roof first, hood, trunk, one whole side, etc as flow is important. WATCH YOUR HOSES!!! It is common for new painters to drag hoses , especially against the hood, ruining the whole job. Wear a high end respirator.

I will assume you are going base clear. If you are doing this, dont try to paint the whole car on the first pass, you will ruin it. Give the vehicle an even :drop coat: on the first past to get something for the paint to stick to. You should be able to see about 50 to 75% of the prepped surface, still, after the first coat. I used to do it in three coats, but do more if you require. Careful of not putting it on too dry, or too wet, then you get runs, but runs are more on the clear..

Let it sit in between coats, if you are baking it, if not baking it wait at least 20 mins between coats.

Now you move onto the clear coating, this is the bread and butter. You are going to have to burn and learn on this one. I would suggest a test shot on some old piece of metal you have to see how it behaves, You also have to remember you can lay it on thick on the hood, for example, but not as think on the sides as it will run. What you are looking for is to get it to "flow". i cant explain that but google some vids on it. You will have to apply it more liberally than the base coat. Keep ypour gun perpindicular to the panel and makes sure you start the trigger before the edge and after the edge in even movements.

Googlew painting techniques for more info.

Now it is all painted, it is very important to remove the tape from the edges before it is dry but not when it is wet. google for more info on when to do that.

If it looks like crap, all is not lost, a lot can be repaired by wetsadning and polishing although an expert job reuires zero polishing and actually ruins the finish imho.

Ask more questins when doing it if you need more info and I will help you out.

good luck
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 40172990


Wow!

Thanks a lot for all that info! I just love GLP for people like you.
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 40236870
Canada
06/05/2017 09:15 AM
Report Abusive Post
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Re: Sanding the old paint away and applying new layers of paint on your car
Yes it is possible, but it is a lot of work (to do it properly) and some expense is required along with tools. If you are so inclined, here goes.

Remove all the trim, like weather stripping, headlights, emblems and the bumper covers.

Wash the car thoroughly, the aim to remove any grease, oil or contaminants.

Sand the entire car with an orbital sander, with 320 (for speed) or 400 ( if it is a nicer car)

hit the rust spots with a metal grinder and keep going until it is all gone. It may be necessary tp patch up any holes with some bondo, but in any case you will have to bondo the entire area that contained the rust. hand block any spots you use bondo until it is nice and smooth and the edges are feathered out to the existing paint with absolutely no ridges.After this, prime the entire area of rust repair with your zinc primer or corrosion primer

Now you can go over the whole car and look for any problem areas like dents, whoops, depressions, etc and repeat the process, except with putty, not heavy duty bondo. Let it dry well enough and sand until it is nice a nd flat, again the block is the preferred method for an amateur, but you can use the orbital if you feel comfortable with it. Apply primer on these areas, or if so inclined, the whole car( which is preferable with a colour change). A little trick to get it really nice and smooth is after priming, spray a very fine coat of black paint( so it appears to come out in fine droplets). What this will do is it will highlight problem areas such as small dents or depressions that need mre attention.

Now you have sanded the whole car, fixed the rust, primed and are ready for finishing prep.
Wash the car again, sand the whole car with 400, then 600 and you can take it higher up to 800 if you want, but 600 is fine.repair any areas that expose metal during this time and repeat the steps over again.

Now it is finish sanded and ready for paint.

Wash the car again and let it dry. take a blower and blow the whole car off to dislodge any dust that may be trapped.( you should do this throughout the process actually).

mask the car up in its entirety.You can buy flex tape that is a quarter inch thick for detail masking. After masked, treat the whole car with some sort of pre cleaner, even thinner works but pre cleanear specifically made for this purpose is desirable. Use clean rags or very stiff papaer towel that does not leave lint. It is preferable to acually use a blower this time too , to blow any surface dust into the rag.

Lastly, use a blower and a tack rag and go over the whole car. you may have to use more than one. the idea is to remove any dirt.

prepping is the key to a good paint job. once you start spraying, it is too late. If you want a quick and dirty job, scotchbrite the whole car with water instead of the long winded process i told you.

Now to the painting. Contrary to popular belief, less paint is better than "25 coats of clear" . i used to paint only high end vehicles, restorations, race cars and high end supercars that had to be perfect so i know what i speak of.

If it is your first time, keep an ample supply of thinner and rags around, in case you have to remove all the apint of a panel you start on. that way, the job can be salvaged if need be.

Start at the roof of the car and work down to the hood, trunk, then sides.Better way is do roof first, hood, trunk, one whole side, etc as flow is important. WATCH YOUR HOSES!!! It is common for new painters to drag hoses , especially against the hood, ruining the whole job. Wear a high end respirator.

I will assume you are going base clear. If you are doing this, dont try to paint the whole car on the first pass, you will ruin it. Give the vehicle an even :drop coat: on the first past to get something for the paint to stick to. You should be able to see about 50 to 75% of the prepped surface, still, after the first coat. I used to do it in three coats, but do more if you require. Careful of not putting it on too dry, or too wet, then you get runs, but runs are more on the clear..

Let it sit in between coats, if you are baking it, if not baking it wait at least 20 mins between coats.

Now you move onto the clear coating, this is the bread and butter. You are going to have to burn and learn on this one. I would suggest a test shot on some old piece of metal you have to see how it behaves, You also have to remember you can lay it on thick on the hood, for example, but not as think on the sides as it will run. What you are looking for is to get it to "flow". i cant explain that but google some vids on it. You will have to apply it more liberally than the base coat. Keep ypour gun perpindicular to the panel and makes sure you start the trigger before the edge and after the edge in even movements.

Googlew painting techniques for more info.

Now it is all painted, it is very important to remove the tape from the edges before it is dry but not when it is wet. google for more info on when to do that.

If it looks like crap, all is not lost, a lot can be repaired by wetsadning and polishing although an expert job reuires zero polishing and actually ruins the finish imho.

Ask more questins when doing it if you need more info and I will help you out.

good luck
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 40172990


Wow!

Thanks a lot for all that info! I just love GLP for people like you.
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 60017333


you are welcome, like i said, if you have anymore questions while you do it, post those too.





GLP