How I make Colloidal Silver for personal use

I think I said in the OP that I run my unit for 18-30 hours.
It is extremely concentrated. I think I could treat 30 gallons with my one gallon I just produced and still have 20 PPM diluted!

Cleaning the electrodes repeatedly and even using a dish clothe to skim off the solids on the surface. These "Colloids" do no harm but removing them makes it more cosmetically appealing.

Since these are actually contaminants, seepage from the plastic, salt if you had used that, Ozone someone mentioned, they are not needed, not necessary and it is improved by removing them.
These also turn the inside of my gallon glass jars into silver mirrors. I think constantly drawing out the silver Ions that are the most desirable. So I remove as much solids as I can. This last batch I also ran through a "Collander" lined with coffee filters.

My best batch yet I do believe.

Last Edited by HnryBwmn///KD0WSJ on 08/31/2014 03:04 PM

Don't use salt, ffs! Use only steam-distilled water with nothing added.

Dam Buddy! And i thought I was smart!

What is your call sign?

I am tuned up on 14.049 right now. I don't QSO every day but listening helps keep my code up

Where are you? I can talk most of the country with 90-100 watts. California and out that way not so much.

Checked into the Liberty Net last night, them boys were still going until about 2 am CT.........

Then I checked into the Breakfast Club about 3 am.
3.973 Mhz.

Afternoons I do code while I'm on here.

See you on the Log!

Gimme a holler!

You cannot use currency.

They must be "PURE SILVER".


Or 999/1000's fine.

Commonly called 3-9's fine.

Any thing else other than Silver in your water, alligator clips, copper centers of 25 cent quarters, antimony in old pre-1964 coins, lead zinc, other impurities are NOT desirable.

in the case of lead or other contaminants may actually cause you to get ill and or die......

"Soon Rivers Run Red"
Michael///KD0WSJ

Last Edited by HnryBwmn///KD0WSJ on 08/31/2014 03:14 PM

I kinda agree. The best results I have gotten are with the common, abundant 25 volt old laptop power supplies.

Many people swear by the 3-9 volt battery sets, wiring 3 batteries in series. The voltages add up when in series. Hook positive to negative, positive to negative positive to negative.
9 + 9 + 9 = 27 volts.
The 9V battery clips are available from Radio Shack or eBay.

These work great with fine 16 gauge silver wire from a jeweler.

But to make the quantities and strength of concentration I make.....you would go through 2 or 3 sets of batteries.

The 16 gauge wires would be gone in about 3 batches. Been there, done that. I started with wire.

9V Duracell batteries are more than $5 each.
2 sets would be $30.
Mine goes on my electric bill. Maybe $1?

"Desperate Times Call For Desperate Measures"
Michael///KD0WSJ

There was a good meeting on the Liberty net last night. I was able to check in for a change. Storms and lightning noise levels were low.
There is recorded Liberty Net Audio, Links in the upper right hand corner of the internet page with links to that below.


Last Edited by HnryBwmn///KD0WSJ on 09/01/2014 01:47 AM

Things that are good for you are getting expensive, out of production or down right outlawed.
Like Iodine, I have some big 8 fl. Ounce bottles I bought 13 years ago that were about $3-$4.
Now they are $18 and up. Just put 5 drops on each elbow crotch and rub in for prevention of Cesuim 137 radioactive iodine infesting your thyroid. 3" square patch square.
Fukushima, doncha know.

"An Ill Wind Blows"

"Those Who make Peaceful Revolution Impossible Make Violent Revolution Inevitable"
Michael///KD0WSJ

Last Edited by HnryBwmn///KD0WSJ on 08/31/2014 10:14 PM

It's not just about PPM, it's about silver particle size and PPM. The smaller the particles, the greater the total surface area to attack the germs. Get the smallest particles possible. That can be accomplished by higher voltages and adding a little H2O2 to the finished product.

You should regulate the current to keep the particle groupings as small as possible.

Never ever add salt! That is a recipe for Smurfskin. You are creating silver chloride, which is insoluble and will lodge itself under your skin, react with sunlight, and eventually turn blue.

You can cheat the initial solution resistance and speed up the colloid generation by inoculating your batch with a small amount of previously made CS before you begin. That will give you the ionization you want.

Some people heat up their CS batch on a hot plate while it's working. Not sure why.

True CS is amber in color, but you can also get amber by not regulating your current and causing large particle clusters to form, which leads you down the road to Smurfsville. Clear or almost clear CS is really just ionic silver, which isn't useful internally as it bonds with your stomach acid and converts to silver chloride in about 18 seconds after ingestion. Thereafter, it'll just lodge under your skin or get flushed out in your urine.

Ionic silver however is great outside your body for skin and surface disinfection.

90%+ of all CS, both home-brewed and commercial, is mostly ionic silver and worthless for internal consumption. If you want something with >50% true colloids, you need to buy Mesosilver as it's in a league of it's own concerning CS particle size.

Don't rely on conductive resistance PPM meters as too many variables influence the resistance of the solution. Only lab work can determine true PPM. You also need a lab to determine approximate particle size if you want to be sure you have true CS.

Here's a simple test for ionic silver:

Dump a teaspoon of table salt into a CS solution. If the solution reacts and clouds up, you have primarily ionic silver, which incidentally just turned into silver chloride. If the solution does not react, you have true CS colloids.

Peace

Thank you! But I am more of a visual learner, is there any chance of a video of this being done?

I won't look but I'll bet you 50 cents there are hundreds on you tube.

You can check your cs batch using the Tyndale effect . I have been using the same red laser pointer for years. Shine the laser through the water before you start. You should not see a light trace through the water. As the CS is being generated check with the light every 5 minutes or so. You will start to see the light scattering by particles in the colloid. The broader the light trace becomes the more concentrated the batch. You can test the effectiveness of your CS this way. I tried this the first time using a 5 gallon bucket that was sitting outside that green algae in it. After pouring one teaspoon of CS into the bucket about 20 minutes later the algae was gone and the water was very pure looking. I have been making it and using it for many years. Just a drop on my tongue lets me know when the batch is ready. I make in a gallon crock using 27 volts DC and large 99.99999 silver stripes. I start with clean pure water, electrodes 1 inch apart for 5 minutes, then 5 minutes 3 inches apart, than 5 minutes 6 inches apart. I use coffee filters to fill blue glass bottles. The healing abilities on cuts and burns is amazing.
(DISCLAIMER I am half nuts and a bit out there crazy so do not listen to anything I say)

What is the shelf life of a batch of CS? How long will it last before having to make up a new batch?

It lasts forever, but the coloid can drop out of the water for unknown reasons. Some say freezing will let it drop. The coloid is atom cluster sized silver hanging out in between the oxygen atoms. You can test it using the Tyndall effect. Shine a laser through the coloid and you should see a light trace if the silver is still suspended.

"Agitating the water" (using aquarium pump bubbler) is the better way to produce the small particle nanosilver.

[link to www.colloidalsilverhowto.com]

"True CS is amber in color, but you can also get amber by not regulating your current and causing large particle clusters to form, which leads you down the road to Smurfsville. Clear or almost clear CS is really just ionic silver, which isn't useful internally as it bonds with your stomach acid and converts to silver chloride in about 18 seconds after ingestion. Thereafter, it'll just lodge under your skin or get flushed out in your urine.

Ionic silver however is great outside your body for skin and surface disinfection.

90%+ of all CS, both home-brewed and commercial, is mostly ionic silver and worthless for internal consumption."

TRUE!

However, Ionic silver solution is NOT 'worthless' internally.
As a matter of fact it is very VALUABLE internally... the ONLY 'problem' is that it can't be INGESTED (for the reason you stated above, i.e. bonding into silver chloride in the stomach.)
You CAN however, introduce them to your bloodstream. You simply 'atomize'/spray and inhale
or
sublingual (under the tongue)
---------------------------

"You can check your cs batch using the Tyndale effect."

TRUE!

The 'visibility check' aka the 'Tyndal effect' will SHOW you that you are creating colloids...
smaller (more useful) colloids are the refraction of light peculiar to colloids that give the 'amber' color to the solution.

Ions however... (present in ALL CS solutions) are invisible. Completely.
Even a 'saturated' solution containing 100% ions will be CLEAR and show NO Tyndal Effect.

Ions (Ag+) are SMALLER than the Silver atom itself. They are slightly subatomic having 'lost' an electron from the outer shell. Very small means Very USEFUL.
------------------------

"For the best CS the generally accepted voltage is 30V DC."

TRUE!

However,
LARGER voltage doesn't mean 'better'.... it means 'faster'.
LARGER voltage does mean LARGER colloids... but made faster.
So, there is a 'trade off'... because smaller colloids are (indeed) better colloids.
30V has been tested to meet that trade off... aka, 'fast enough' and yet 'small enough'.
-----------------------

"Agitating the water" (using aquarium pump bubbler) is the better way to produce the small particle nanosilver."

TRUE!

It 'exposes' the surface of the cathode to interact more readily into 'giving up' electrons to the anode.
-----------------------------

Cheers to all and thanks OP for this thread. :)

Update:

"Another variable that influences particle size is the water temperature. The warmer the water, the faster the reaction will take place, and the smaller the particles will be."

- A Closer Look At Colloidal Silver By Peter A. Lindemann,
Developer of the CS-300C and CS-300D Colloidal Silver Generators (en francais)

Learn to make it NOW......

Get some made up, put it into glass, keep out of sun.

I stole this from the Ukraine thread:

[link to www.youtube.com (secure)]

I am going to buy some silver today. Question should I buy 1 oz troy bars or can I go with the thinner 10 gram bars? Money is kinda tight.

Bumpity. Bump.

I suggest using .9999 silver wire instead of .999 because of the impurities. I use 12 gauge wire and it lasts a long time. I use a computer printer power supply that puts out 36 volts DC at 1 amp (1000 ma.) I have several of these. Also, Radio Shack has a multiple voltage model that selects the voltage by a switch on the front. Also, I use a aquarium pump to agitate the water, I purchased at Walmart. I make ionic silver instead of the colloid and ingest it under my tongue. Also, I can use it in a nebulizer if I get ill. However, I haven't had a cold or flu in 40 years or more, since beginning to use cs. Good stuff!
Never use salt or anything else in the water, always use distilled water, always. It's less than $1 a gallon at Walmart. Where else are you going to get an antibiotic for $1 a gallon?